Deluge

Our fourth annual black-fly-escape trip to North Carolina in May started with a soggy stay on Assateague Island in Maryland and only one far-off wild pony sighting. We had ponies grazing by the Casita last year, but this year the same grazing area was a swamp. Todd said we had a “waterfront” site 🙂

Next it was on to the Outer Banks of North Carolina and our favorite trailer site on Pamlico Bay in Rodanthe. We were entertained by extremely talented kite-boarders until a storm rolled in. Quite dramatic!

 

Happily, by the time we made our way down to Ocracoke Island, we were blessed with perfect beach weather (warm and sunny with a breeze to keep bugs away), and Todd took some photos which will certainly take turns as my computer wallpaper next winter. See what I mean?

The water temperature was perfect, too. Refreshing but not cold. (Warm water seems to attract sharks. No, thank you.)

 

The ferry ride across Pamlico Sound to Swan Quarter on the mainland was pleasant, and we headed straight to our favorite barbecue restaurant in Rocky Mount then drove on to Chapel Hill where we spent two nights with our good friends Vicky and John Boreyko. It was there that we heard about flooding problems in Western North Carolina and the impending arrival of the remnants of Hurricane Alberto, working its way up from the Gulf.

At that point we fully appreciated that we were “camping” in the Casita rather than a tent. Rain and wind? No problem!

Last year in the Pisgah National Forest we took some hikes off the Blue Ridge Parkway (read about it in “Asheville”), but this year the mountains were socked in and it rained for a good part of our 3-day stay. What to do? Change plans!

The Pisgah is known for its waterfalls, and it was there that the 1992 version of Last of the Mohicans was filmed. (More on that later!) We hiked with umbrellas, which is brilliant when it’s too hot to put on a raincoat, and we saw some amazing, roaring falls.

 

Beau wasn’t entirely onboard with this plan. Our two previous dogs were Labs who characteristically loved water, but Beau… not so much. He is getting much better, though. When our son David first adopted him from a shelter in Sacramento, Beau balked at mere puddles, but on this trip, he was a champ.

Our hike to Twin Falls required numerous stream crossings on logs. The water was high (and loud), and the logs were wet. Todd and I could make use of handrails, but Beau had to walk the slippery plank over and over. He required encouragement, and once when Todd was trying to help him, Beau literally grabbed onto Todd’s leg with his paws. It was hilarious! On one crossing Beau slipped part way across and almost dropped into the roiling water, but like an Olympic gymnast, he scrambled and regained his balance. That dog has game!

The most impressive falls were in the DuPont Forest Recreation Area. “Single track” hiking trails in the forest were closed due to erosion concerns caused by the rain, but we were able to take larger “double track” trails on a loop to see Triple Falls and High Falls, and we walked a couple of miles on a conservation road to see Bridal Veil Falls.

Crossing the river on a Covered Bridge gave us this view of the lip of High Falls. Imagine coming upon it in a canoe and not knowing what was over the edge. At least on the day we were there the thundering sound of the falls was a pretty clear warning.

Bridal Veil Falls is where the “behind the falls” scene in Last of the Mohicans was filmed. It’s where Nathaniel (Hawkeye), Uncas, and Chingachgook leap through the falls, leaving Clara and her sister to be captured by Magua and the Huron war party.

Sounds grim, but it’s one of my favorite movie love scenes. Nathaniel promises to find Clara, no matter how long it takes. Sigh. (Click here to see the scene.) Todd filmed a cool slo-mo video of Bridal Veil Falls. There would have been no filming behind it that day — way too much water! (Click here to watch)

Since I’m on this tangent (and I love a good tangent), my other favorite movie love scene is in the movie Witness. Harrison Ford plays a Philadelphia cop, John Book, who hides in Pennsylvania Amish country to protect a child, Samuel, who has witnessed a murder. A couple of corrupt cops are out to get Samuel. Kelly McGillis plays Rachel, Samuel’s mother, who is a young widow. John is working on repairing his car in the barn when Rachel comes out to watch him. He gets the radio to work, and then there’s the dancing. Ahhh. “Don’t know much about history…” (Click here for that one. You really should!)

While in Asheville we skirted the overflowing French Broad River (the River Arts District was closed off) and enjoyed the phenomenal Blue Spiral 1 gallery. Strolling the downtown district, we were struck by the thriving hippy culture. Apparently, there’s still a market for love beads. Who knew?

Our favorite low-key local eatery — Moe’s Original Barbecue — was closed in Asheville due to the flooding, but we were able to find another location in next-door Woodfin and got our ribs fix.

This year, we missed the gorgeous views of the blanket of mountains unfolding from the Blue Ridge Parkway, and the Mountain Laurels were lost in the clouds, but Asheville and the Pisgah National Forest did not disappoint. Thank you, Casita!